- 01Print the holeTo the diameter your insert manufacturer publishes for its size.
- 02Sit it squareThe insert should rest in the mouth of the hole without being pushed.
- 03Heat the ironHot enough to soften the plastic, not to burn it. Start low.
- 04Press straight downLet the heat do the work. Force is what tips it out of square.
- 05Stop at the surfaceFlush, or a hair proud. Below the surface and the threads sit in a crater.
- 06Let it coolBefore touching it. The plastic re-forms around the knurl as it sets.
The hole diameter comes from your insert
Heat-set inserts are knurled, tapered and dimensioned differently between manufacturers, and the recommended hole is a property of that specific insert rather than of the thread size. A number that works perfectly for one brand of M3 insert will be loose or splitting in another.
Find the figure in your insert supplier datasheet and use it. If none is published, test on a scrap coupon printed in the same material and orientation before committing to the real part. This site does not publish a universal hole table, because there is no honest one to publish.
Temperature, and going slowly
Set the iron well above the material glass transition but well below its decomposition point. For PLA that generally means somewhere around 200 to 230C, and for PETG a little higher; the exact figure matters less than going slowly enough for the heat to conduct into the plastic instead of pooling at the tip.
Let the insert sink under the weight of the iron plus light pressure. Pushing hard forces molten plastic sideways rather than letting it flow around the knurling, which is where the holding strength comes from.
Why the wall bulges, and how to stop it
Displaced plastic has to go somewhere. If the boss wall is thin, it goes outward and you get a visible bulge or a split. Give the boss at least about 1.5 to 2mm of wall around the insert, and more in a brittle material.
Setting the insert flush or very slightly below the surface, rather than proud, also helps: the last fraction of a millimetre is where most of the displaced material ends up.
PLA against PETG
PLA is stiffer and more brittle, so it holds a crisp knurl impression but splits more readily if the hole is undersized. PETG is more ductile and tolerates a slightly tight hole, but it is stringier when molten and tends to web around the insert.
Neither is a problem if the hole is right. Both become a problem if you use a number you found for the other one.

