PLA vs PETG: which to use.
Pick the wrong filament and the part fails. Pick the right one and it works for years. PLA and PETG cover most of what hobbyists print. This page shows you which to use for every situation.
Pick the right material in under a minute.
Use PLA when heat and strength do not matter.
PLA works well for anything that stays indoors and stays cool. It prints at the lowest temps, requires no heated bed, and forgives almost every tuning mistake. That makes it ideal for learning a new printer.
Switch to PETG when the part has a job to do.
PETG is the step-up material for parts that actually need to hold up. It handles more stress, more heat, and more flex than PLA, without needing an enclosure.
Fix these three PETG issues before you waste a spool.
Where PETG falls short.
Ten-second decision guide.
Not sure which material fits your project? See our complete filament guide for all 7 material types. Or compare ABS vs PETG and PLA vs ABS.
Both materials, one reference sheet.
PETG from one brand and PETG from another need different retraction settings. Our printable settings guide gives you the starting point for both materials, with the temperatures and drying requirements side by side. A logging app is in development and we will say so here when it ships.
Get the free field guideCommon questions
- Is PETG better than PLA?
- For anything functional, usually. PETG survives heat to around 80C where PLA softens near 60C, and it bends rather than snapping. PLA is easier to print and gives crisper detail, so it stays the better choice for display pieces.
- Can I print PETG on the same printer as PLA?
- Yes. PETG needs a hotter nozzle and a hotter bed but no enclosure, so any printer that runs PLA will run PETG. Expect to spend a little time on stringing, which is the one thing PETG is genuinely fussier about.
- Why does PETG string so much more than PLA?
- Mostly moisture. PETG is hygroscopic and PLA barely is, so a spool left open picks up water that boils at the nozzle and leaves threads. Dry the filament before adjusting retraction.
- Which is stronger, PLA or PETG?
- PLA is stiffer and PETG is tougher, which are different things. PLA resists bending harder but fails suddenly; PETG flexes and absorbs impact. For a part that gets knocked about, PETG lasts longer.
- Is PLA or PETG better for outdoor use?
- PETG. PLA is not a serious outdoor material: it softens in a hot car and degrades in sunlight. PETG handles both far better, though ASA beats it for anything permanently exposed.
So which should you buy?
Choose PLA if
180-220°C nozzle · 50-60°C bed · no enclosure
- Display models
- Prototypes
- Toys and figures
The catch: Parts soften around 60C, so a print left on a dashboard will sag. If the part needs to survive heat, move to PETG or ABS rather than trying to tune PLA.
Typical price $15-30 per 1 kg spool. Drying is rarely necessary.
Choose PETG if
220-250°C nozzle · 70-85°C bed · no enclosure
- Functional parts
- Outdoor fixtures
- Food-adjacent containers
The catch: Stringing between towers. Drop the nozzle 5C at a time and raise travel speed before you touch retraction distance.
Typical price $18-30 per 1 kg spool. Needs drying before use.
Before you order either
- Buy vacuum-sealed with desiccant, and read how to dry filament before the first failed print rather than after it.
- Check the published diameter tolerance. ±0.02mm is good; ±0.05mm shows up as inconsistent extrusion whatever you paid.
Not printing it yourself?
If you would rather have the part arrive than pick a filament, upload the model and get a price in both materials.
FDM only, up to 220mm per side, shipping within the United States. Accepts STL, 3MF, STEP, OBJ.
Upload a file for printingOwnership: 3DPrinterOnDemand is Another Anvil Road property, so we have a commercial interest in it. We are not recommending it as an independent party, and where it cannot print a material we say so and point elsewhere.